When it is breezy, like it always seems to be in Aruba with trade winds averaging more than 25 miles per hour, it’s better to follow the adage--swing easy. It is just a normal tendency to swing harder under these windy conditions. However, you tend to hit down more and the ball goes higher and not as far. A slightly wider stance helps you maintain your balance better, too.

When teeing off into the wind, tee the ball at normal height and try to make sure you hit it solid. On approach shots, take more club, choke down on the grip and use a three-quarter swing. The normal rule is that you will lose one yard for every mile-per-hour of wind. In a 30-mile wind, this means three additional clubs for most golfers. Playing the ball back in your stance helps keep the ball lower, too.

Tee the ball higher when driving down wind. Let the wind give it a ride. Be careful, however, and consider a fairway wood or even an iron if there is trouble--water or sand--in the longer projected driving zone. On approach shots, take a more lofted club and aim for the front portion or short of the green since the tailwind tends to spin the ball more, producing more roll.

The wind accentuates slices and hooks dramatically and golfers need to aim more to the left or right when playing in such cross winds. Slicers might want to tee up on the right side of the tee and hookers on the left side.

If you have the ability to work the ball, then I would recommend trying to hook the ball into a left-to-right wind and fade the ball into a right-to-left wind. The wind tends to straighten out such shots. Just remember to hit more club and swing easy.

Wind can affect chips, too. Use a less-lofted club into the wind and hit it harder. The ball will stop quickly. Take a more lofted club down wind, allowing for more roll.

On the greens, allow for more break down wind and with cross wind and hit it easier. Play less break and hit putts harder into the wind.

In really high winds like those in Aruba, it might be good idea to follow Jack Nicklaus’ advice and not ground your putter when preparing to putt. That way, if the ball happens to be moved by the wind when you have soled the putter at address, you can avoid a penalty. If the ball moves after it is at rest, it is in play. Do not replace it! It can actually go closer to the hole or farther from the hole.

Playing on Bermuda greens also calls for some adjustments, especially for those used to playing on bent grass. The grain-- the direction the blades of grass lay down--really affects your putts, especially when it slows down nearer the hole. When putting down grain, it’s easy to run the ball 10 to 15 feet past the cup. It’s  hard to get the ball to the hole when going against the grain.

The best way to determine grain?   On Bermuda greens, you will usually note that one side appears to be cut clean while the other one seems ruffled or brown. If the backside of the hole is ruffled, you are putting down grain. Vice versa, you are putting into the grain if you see the ruffled side at the front of the hole. If the right side is ruffled, the grain is from left to right. If the right side is clean, the grain is from right to left.

There’s no secret formula for how much difference the grain will make on a putt. That&'s why it is wise to spend extra time on the putting green before going to play. You have to get the “feel” for the difference.

Grain can also affect chip shots. Consider taking a less lofted club when chipping into the grain so that the ball will roll better. A more lofted club or even a putter might be a better choice when going down grain.

You also have to make adjustments for your approach shots, too. The ball will stop quicker when hitting into the grain and you will want to carry the ball farther. Vice versa, you might want to try and land the ball short and let it run up when the grain is running away from you.

Be patient, too. Don’t press too much. Just realize that everyone’s scores are likely to be higher when it’s windy and you are also playing on greens with lots of grain.